Blue lime-washed houses, busy squares, steep alleyways, the best way to discover this holy town is to wander around it taking in the atmosphere.

The old town
Cut into the sides of two mountains, Chefchaouen is a city with blue and white lime-washed houses. A powerful charm that you really can feel in the Outa-el-Hammam square, in the cobblestone medina. Sat on the terrace of a cafe, you can enjoy the attractive view of the grand Tarik-Ben-Ziad mosque whose octagonal minaret is inspired by that of the Torre de Oro in Seville. This Andalousian architecture can be found in the kasbah and its gardens, at the center of the medina. Its walls and its 11 crenellated towers, of which one used to be a dungeon, house an interesting ethnographic museum.

A lively culture
In the small museum in the kasbah can be found collections of embroideries and colored and varied pieces of clothing like those worn by the region’s women. The famous djellaba, this long and ample garment worn by the men and women of North Africa, was created here. The welcome and great hospitality provided by its inhabitants can be experienced during a visit to a traditional oil mill (there are more than 1500 of them) or a craftsman’s workshop. Over and above its weaving, Chefchaouen is renowned for its basket-making and its pottery. Furthermore, you can take part in an introduction to pottery workshop in the pottery at Ghzaoua, and go away with your own berradas (water jugs) or a more simple goulla (jar). On the whole, the pottery of the Rif region is fairly plain. Black or red paint is applied directly onto the terracotta. The walk continues as far as Rif Sebbarim, the wash house district, to the square on which there is a mosque dating from the 15th century. A visit to the agadirs or the region’s fortified communal attics is also a must. Finally, leaving the town without having first tried its goat’s milk cottage cheese from the mountains is out of the question. It is perhaps the best in Morocco.


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