The small town of Koszeg only 3km from Hungary’s western border is a delight for the visitor tired of the hustle and bustle of Vienna and Budapest.


It’s bucolic charm is centred around the medieval Jurisics Ter; overlooked by the Heroes Gate and the museum based within it. looking down it’s not hard to imagine the townsfolk going about their business for centuries past. The buildings around the square include the old town hall and a wonderful pharmacy museum featuring an antique druggists shop. The two churches in the middle of the square are worth a look although entrance is restricted to the rear of the churches only. The church of St. James features some wonderful old frescoes. Further to the north is Jurisics Castle which withstood a siege in 1532 helping to stem the advance of the Turks westwards. The Turkish forces withdrew at 11 a.m., an event commemorated every day as the towns churches mark the hour. Don’t miss the massively heavy castle walls curving round to the west or the sad remnents of the brick synagogue to the east along Varkor. If you have a spare hour travel out along Sziget utca northwards and scale Calvary Hill marked with the stations of the cross along the climb to get a lovely panorama of the town.

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