This is an outstanding city, built on a hill with remains from Roman times [including a first century house and an amphitheatre] but with the general appearance of a mediaeval town, once you have gone from the station into the centre. There is a bus if you wish.
The cathedral square is as good and atmospheric as any in Italy and at the top of the town there is a real treat. Just on the far side is an amazing bridge, the Ponte delle Torre, 755 feet long and 262 feet high [230 by 80 metres], built in the 14th century on the basis of a Roman aqueduct!
Getting from the train station to the visitor’s center in town was a cheap and easy bus ride. We stayed at a clean hotel with an incredibly large bathroom for a 3 star hotel, at 65 euros for a Monday night. And the food was the best we had our entire trip! Definitely a town worth spending the night at before heading back to Rome, with no tourists, we were able to get a feel for real Italian living.
The opera house is in total rennovation mode (as of summer 2007), but will be sure to provide incredible entertainment once the venue is ready for its grand reopening. We happened upon the first century Roman house by accident, paid the small entrance fee, and was blown away by the beauty and size. What a great city.