Umbria, describing itself as ‘the Green Heart of Italy’ was overshadowed for centuries by the glories of Tuscany. Other than Assisi, which has always had many visitors for obvious reasons, and the magnificent cathedral faade of Orvieto, it was much less known. It still tends to be regarded as a place for a break if the glories of Tuscany have become too much.
This marks what now seems an absurd underrating. Umbria is worth more than one visit in its own right and places like Perugia, Gubbio, Spoleto and Foligno have taken their place. Yet many might prefer the ‘lesser’ places such as Spello, Todi and Trevi, not just as a break from the crowds but as some really fine hill-top villages.